We would like to think it stands for Politically Correct, but alas, it stands for Protective Coating.
The others know what their product is worth I guess. We realize there are many choices. We also realize that the consumer does not read the packaging and if they do, they skim over it without comprehending what is there. Let's compare apples to apples. When you go to the store, you see a plethora of products and mostly in syringes. Many of our products are carded, but they contain more product than the competitor. If the 1 oz. package costs $5 and our 2 oz. package costs $5.50; which is a better value? You will also be comparing liquid epoxies (we call them raw and are what they sell as a finished product, whereas, we add fillers in order to give our products attributes they can not achieve. Basically what they sell as a finished product is what we start with.) Fillers are more expensive, but a filled epoxy is also more permanent and reliable. What value is in buying a $5 product if it fails and you have to buy another product? The buyers at these stores are conditioned to buy cheap products because they think that is what the consumer wants. We disagree. We give you more credit than that and believe you would like good value and reliability for your money. You only want to do it once. We contend that if you want your money/'s worth; always look for the PC on the label. In order to help you choose the correct product, try our "Recommend-a-lator™ 3000" on the website. It is unique.
Unless you live in a very remote area, you should be able to find our products. Not every store carries all of our products, but they can get them for you. See our website for more tips on where to find as well as item numbers. Generally, an ACE, True Value, Do-It Best and local hardware stores and paint centers will have the products or availability to them. If you would rather buy on-line, we offer several resources that carry the majority of our products including Homedepot.com and Grainger.com. Our products are available in more than 50,000 retail outlets across the U.S and world wide. If your store does not have the product, ask them to order it for you.
Sorry, but, no. I would like to purchase a new car, but I am having trouble convincing the dealer to give me one for free first. We would love to be able to make your repair at no cost to you, but because of the new economic stimulus plan, we have chosen to pay our employees instead (they like to have money to buy frivolous things like food and pay rent and maybe even buy a product or service from where you work). Go figure. We do not package our products in sample sizes. I suggest you purchase a small size of the product in question, and see if it does what you want it to do.
I would recommend the PC-Concrete. It is easy to use and much stronger and more flexible than the surrounding concrete. Make sure you clean out the dirt and dust from the crack before applying the product. Remember, the adhesive is only as strong as what it is bonding to. If rust or dirt or paint is on the surface, the epoxies are only as strong as what they are bonding to. See our "Recommend-a-lator™ 3000" for the product for your application.
None of them will be reliable, and none of the other epoxies on the market will be either. Vinyl is not a good candidate for repairing.
Depending on the color you want; either PC-7 (dark gray) or PC-11 (off white) will work great and are recommended by many of the manufacturers of these countertops. For invisible seams, I recommend PC-Clear.
Most products have a tough time with aluminum, but you're in luck. You can use either PC-7 or PC-11 for this type of repair. Make sure the area is well cleaned and rough up with sandpaper first. Aluminum oxidizes and forms a powdery film on the surface. Cleaning and roughing up the area will eliminate this prior to making the repair.
Yes they will. Stainless steel has an oily film that needs to be cleaned with denatured alcohol. Rough up the area to be repaired with sand paper and you are ready to fix away.
Plastic repair is very difficult and in many cases impossible. Most epoxies have limited success on plastic surfaces. In general, if it is a soft and flexible plastic; you will not have any luck with any product. If it is a rigid plastic like fiberglass, ABS type plastics etc you can use our products. You need to sand the shiny surface from this plastic first and then clean the area well before applying. SuperEpoxy and Fast-n EZ have a pretty good track record on this type of repair. If on Fiberglass, we recommend PC-11 as well.
Only if you want it to last for a long time. Sand as much of any paint or rust or other materials from the repair site first. Preparation is 90% of the job. Adhesives are only as strong as what they are bonding to. If there is paint etc. there, the epoxy is only as strong as the paint.
You can do one of two things. First, you can just fill the basement with water and make it into an indoor swimming pool. This is popular with friends and relatives. The other option is to seal the crack and stop the leak. I would recommend PC-7 for this application. Clean out the crack and make sure it is dry first. If you can not dry the area, use PC-11.
I would suggest the following:
Clean the rotted are of any loose dirt and dust. Apply the Rot Terminator product to the area with a brush. Repeat if needed. After fully cured, you can use PC-Woody to rebuild the area. Let this cure, then sand and prime and paint. Take lots of photos of your completed project; you will be the envy of all you show them to.
Our products will bond to Polyurethane. As for the rest of the Polys. No. If unsure what you are dealing with, it is best to test a small area first.
Yeah right, your wife broke it. If it is a clean break and no missing pieces, you can use PC-Clear. If some of the pieces have shattered and the area needs to rebuilt, PC-11 is an excellent choice.
I would suggest PC-Metal putty epoxy. The bond will be good and it will take the vibration well. This is also non-conductive. This also works well for underground wire splicing.
*Here is an odd one and not frequently asked, but we thought it was interesting. This question was posed to us by a government environmental agency.
I suggest PC-7 paste epoxy for this. Actually we have had some experience with a similar situation where here in Pennsylvania they used PC-7 to attach transmitters to collars for tracking black bear. The product is safe and durable and would be ideal for this project.
First, let us say we fully support our troops, and thank you so much for your service. PC-7 is used widely for this purpose. We will send you a gallon. I hope you enjoy this recreation and can find some relaxation in it.
PC-7 would be my choice. It is thick and heavy duty and will certainly hold up to the environmental issues as well as the tourists and animals. You will have to tape the heavier objects in place until the product hardens (generally overnight).
Isn't that cheating? Looking for the fish electronically. Anyway, yes, PC-11 would be a very good choice and will hold up to not only the wet environment, but vibration as well. Gone Fishin.
We actually get many calls for this very same reason. I can't understand why anyone would be so disrespectful. We always suggest PC-7 for this application. It will hold up very well, and they will not topple the headstone and marker so easily next time.
Try PC-SuperEpoxy. It is fast and very durable.
Yes, PC-Concrete is the perfect choice for this application. The product has high ratings for seismic applications and is approved for anchoring. PC-Concrete also has flexibility, and the vibration from the mixer should be no challenge for the product. If all else fails, you can always use a paint stirrer like in the old days.
We actually have several. PC-11 is a good choice for larger repairs to this. If it is just a small missing piece, you can use PC-Crete putty epoxy.
Ah, the joys of dining al fresco! Since this, to me, would be considered more along the line of being structural (you don't want to end up on your butt with chili sauce all over you), I would suggest using Rot Terminator wood hardener to harden the deteriorating areas, and then rebuilding any missing parts with PC-Woody. Fire up the grill!
I can't relate to this. I am cheap and wash them by hand. You should use PC-11. Once it cures, it is non-toxic and nothing will leech into the water. It will also hold up very well to the hot water and vibration.
Yes, turning spalted wood can be very dangerous. Often there are fungi and mold spores associated with the spalt. Many of your fellow wood turners have and continue to use PC-Petrifier for this purpose. Harden the spalted area and turn away. You should still wear a mask or respirator and of course safety glasses while doing this. CAUTION: turning spalted wood without precautions can lead to respiratory complications and worse! Be careful.
PC-Concrete of course! In order to apply safely to a wet surface, you must make sure the holes you drill are thoroughly cleaned out. Instead of filling the hole half way like you would for dry surface anchoring, you must fill the holes fully from the bottom of the hole up prior to inserting your threaded rod or anchor bolts. You also need to allow more time before bolting the project down. (8 hours or so should do it at 70°F). Longer if colder.
PC-Woody will work for this and will not shrink. PC-Woody will also hold up to expansion and contraction due to temperature changes and can be painted. This exact application was highlighted on a recent "Today" show and our PC-Woody was one of the recommended products.
I am very familiar with gas. The tank can be fixed by using PC-metal putty epoxy, or PC-7 paste epoxy. The PC-7 will be more durable, but will take longer to cure for service. It depends on how much of a hurry you are in. Either product will hold up to gasoline or fuel oil once they have cured.
Dear Frustrated, we have several products that will work. Your error has been choosing the wrong product in the past. We can help you change your ways. PC-SuperEpoxy or PC-Fast-n EZ will be great choices. They are both thick and will not run or drip. They also have good grab and will help keep the small bracket where you want it until they cure. It is always helpful to tape the bracket to support it until the epoxy cures.
They lied (actually, they stretched the truth. What they probably meant to say was that for a very short period of time, the product can withstand up to 600°F). High temperature repairs are challenging and for the most part impossible to achieve. Fortunately for this situation, we make PC-Fahrenheit. This will hold up to 500°F for long periods of time, and certainly enough to get you through your cookouts.
Use PC-11. It is a great choice for repairs to fiberglass. Gnarly, Dude!
We would prefer you buy as much as possible. Hey, we offer a 2 year shelf life on it. The amount needed depends on the size and scope of the project. One gallon (8lb. unit) 1/8" thick will supply enough product for 8 square feet of coverage.
No, the product once cured is designed to be permanent. Actually if you can apply enough heat to the product safely, it will soften. A propane torch will do the trick. This has to be done at temperatures in excess of 200°F. Also very strong paint remover will soften it, but you need to repeat the application of the paint remover a number of times. This is the preferred method due to safety issues.
PC-7 is a dark gray color. You can not tint I to a lighter shade but by adding stove black it can be made darker. PC-7 can be painted after it has cured.
No. The product is not formulated to be thinned out. It is a heavy duty paste epoxy and that is where the magic comes from. By warming the product, it does become easier to work with and creamier.
First; did you mix part A and part B together? The product will not harden to a full cure in cooler temperatures or in high humidity. If you mixed the two parts thoroughly, temperature is about the only thing that can deter the curing process. The product is designed to be slow curing. This ultimately gives PC-7 its incredible strength.
Yes, by subjecting it to artificial heat. A heat lamp with a 100 watt bulb will work fine for this. If working outdoors, move the project into the sunlight.
We are in the business to sell product, so we would prefer you just buy a new container. Actually if both parts are pliable and can be mixed, the product is still useable. PC-7 has excellent shelf stability.
Yes. You can sand, machine, drill and grind the cured product.
Yes, Just add more of the hardener side (black) to the mix. Usually a 60% to 40% ratio will do the trick.
This is an interesting question. The best way is to warm the product. You can place the cans in warm water, or you can remove some of the product and place on a paper plate and gently warm in a microwave, or you can travel to a warmer climate (closer to the equator). I suggest the first two examples unless you really need a vacation.
Now; why would you want to do that? Adding more of the hardener will only make it more flexible and actually slow down the curing process.
PC-7 will withstand a temperature of 250°F. Epoxy starts to break down at temperatures nearing 350°F. Not just ours, but all epoxies in general. (Don't believe everything others claim. You can't change the laws of Physics. I should know.) If you need a repair to withstand higher temperatures, I would suggest PC-Fahrenheit, which will withstand temperatures of up to 500°F (No we did not change the laws of Physics, we just found a different way of making an epoxy that will stand up to higher temperatures).
Sorry, that information is classified.
Yes. There are two ways this can be accomplished. Buy a Hardware Store or buy the Company.
PC-7 does not have the NSF approval. We have never had it tested. Once cured though, PC-7 is harmless and safe for contact. If you need the NSF approval, I suggest you try PC-Plumbing, which carries this approval.
Bruce; may I call you Bruce? Anyway, in the early stages prior to the product beginning to harden, water can be used for clean-up but it is not as affective as using denatured alcohol (ethanol) or lacquer thinner.
PC-7, once cured, is resistant to oil, gasoline, diesel fuel and other petroleum products. PC-7 is also resistant to mild acids, salt and fresh water and most other chemicals.
Once brought up to a warm temperature, the PC-7 will have been unaffected by the cold. Epoxies such as PC-7 go into hibernation if you will or become dormant at temperatures below 50°F. Once warmed, you will find that the product will be as good as new. p.s. Get a heater A?
The shelf life of PC-7 is at least 2 years. All of the products have a code stamped onto the package. You need a decoder ring to figure it out though. Sold separately. I'll save you the cost of the ring. The code is a 4 digit code based on the Julian calendar. The first digit is the last number of the year (i.e. 9 = 2009) the remaining 3 digits represent the day of that year (i.e. January 25th would be the 025 day of the year). 9219. would be August, 7th, 2009 etc... Pay attention, there will be a test!
Yes. PC-11 is non-toxic and bonds to wet surfaces. After PC-11 cures, it is non-toxic to the fish.
Absolutely. It is best if you can rough up the area with some sandpaper first and make sure the area is clean (use denatured alcohol).
Yes. Put on your Speedo, jump in and enjoy. Mix PC-11 and let stand for about 20 minutes prior to using. Apply to both the back of the tile and the area where the tile is being reattached.
Personally, I would invest in some security or get out of town, but PC-11 will seal the hole and be safe for the animals.
PC-11 can easily be tinted while mixing with Universal pigments or powdered pigments. You can also paint the cured product.
Of course. This is a great repair for PC-11. The increased flexibility in the product ensures a good durable repair even under extreme conditions.
Where is the water going? You may have more problems than just a cracked floor. PC-11 will indeed be a good choice for this repair. Clean the surface good to remove soap film and rough the area with sandpaper first.
Probably, but I would test a small area before undertaking a major repair. Certain plastics are not compatible with any epoxies.
Take a deep breath first. It is best to mix PC-11 and let it stand for about 15 minutes prior to using it underwater. This gives it time to thicken a bit.
PC-11 can be painted. Stain will not work.
PC-11 will hold up to the salt water and once it cures, it is non-toxic.
Sorry Charlie. We do not recommend gel coating over the product.
We seem to have a lot in common. I love PC-11 too. What are you doing later? Please do not add solvents to PC-11. Warm the product or smooth out and work thinner by dipping a putty knife into denatured alcohol and smoothing.
Yes. PC-11, is resistant to gasoline and diesel fuel.
We certainly do not recommend this. Believe it or not, this really is a common question. The Dental association does not recommend it either. Since you have already done it though; if you lips do not fall off, you are probably safe.
Let's see. 11 minus 7 equals 4. PC-11 is an off white color, whereas PC-7 is gray. PC-11 works on wet surfaces and PC-7 is for dry surfaces. PC-11 is smoother and not as thick and pasty as PC-7. PC-11 has more flexibility and is a great choice for fiberglass whereas PC-7 is harder and more rigid and better for metal and non-flexible surfaces.
Why would you want to remove it? Did you make a boo-boo? The only way to remove it is to heat it with a propane torch or use a very strong paint remover repeatedly. Dad's Easy Spray® is a good choice for the latter.
Yes, PC-11 has UV blockers added to retain it's color. PC-11 may darken slightly with age.
It is easy to measure inaccurately in small quantities. Accidentally measuring more hardener (blue - part B) than resin (white - part A) will cause the cure to be soft or not to cure at all. Extra care should be taken to be certain there is not an excess of hardener. It is better to error with greater resin (white - part A) than hardener (blue - part B).
Paints vary considerably and all types do not always dry properly when in contact with cured epoxy. It is best to prime the epoxy with a stain sealing primer in order to prevent any interaction with the cured epoxy.
Cured epoxy interferes with the polymerization of fiberglass gel coats. The result is uncured resin at the interface and causes blisters. Conversely, epoxy cures nicely to fiberglass. Seal all epoxy with stain sealing primer before gel coating.
Not likely, this is a common misconception and the PC-11 may cure slower or not at all. The system is designed to cure properly at 1:1 ratio. Excess hardener will overwhelm the epoxy resin causing incomplete polymerization.
Yes Virginia, it is. Would we lie? PC-Clear, unlike other liquid epoxy adhesives that turn yellow or orange, remains clear even after curing. This is something we worked on for many years to accomplish.
It is very strong and resilient. Adhesive lap shear tensile test result of 2450 psi on steel.
PC Clear does not yellow as it cures. PC Clear does not have UV protection and will eventually suffer sun damage in exterior applications.
Yes, but it may be messy. Tape over areas to minimize the mess. For larger applications use a plastic drop cloth.
The fast cure time shortens the fixture time. This helps to make the repair or art project less time consuming. In cooler temperatures, the gel time will slow down slightly, but for the most part, you should have the repair area prepped and ready to go prior to mixing it.
Yes, use PC Clear to perform nearly invisible repairs to glass.
It is truly, FAST and Easy!
Just what we say. The product is very flexible, which is good for making repairs. Most epoxies are brittle and do not hold up to flexion and shifting of the surfaces. Flexibility solves this.
Two mixer nozzles come with each syringe of PC Fast-n EZ
PC Fast-n EZ is a gel not a liquid. It is thicker than other epoxy products in similar packaging. This reduces the amount of dripping. As long as you keep it out of your hair, if you have any, it is not messy.
PC Fast-n EZ works well to fix trim on a car.
Unlike other epoxy products sold in similar packaging, PC Fast-n EZ has an extended working time of approximately 8 minutes.
No, PC Fast-n EZ cures hard and flexible.
PC Fast-n EZ sticks exceptionally well to SBR and Vinyl rubber and very well to various plastics such as PVC, polycarbonate, acrylic, ABS and polyurethane. It also sticks well to metals, ceramics and glass.
Yes, it is excellent for typical applications in the wood shop. It ease of use and fast cure makes it better than polyurethanes and water based glues.
According to Mr. Webster: There is no clear and widely supported definition of a VOC. From a chemistry viewpoint "Volatile Organic Compound" can mean any organic compound (all chemical compounds containing carbon with exceptions) that is volatile (evaporating or vaporizing readily under normal conditions). This is a very broad set of chemicals. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are organic chemical compounds that have high enough vapor pressures under normal conditions to significantly vaporize and enter the atmosphere. Many States limit the amount of VOC's allowed in products. PC-Petrifier is a very safe and environmentally responsible product.
Yes. Apply it to the end grains and on the wood itself. Once Petrifier dries, it will have a slight gloss. You must protect it with either a paint, solid stain or varnish if outdoors. The water base formulation will allow the product to breakdown over time from rain etc if not protected.
Not all of it, just anything that is loose and flaky.
This depends on the wood porosity and the square footage you are treating. You should use generously in order to soak the wood for best results. Buy lots of it. Unless you let the cap off or allow to freeze, PC-Petrifier will not spoil.
Not if you want it to remain load bearing. PC-Petrifier is designed for non-structural applications like window sills and decorative wood. If you require structural integrity, I suggest our PC-Rot Terminator epoxy hardener.
Wear a rain coat. Actually, you can use a paint brush or transfer to a spray bottle.
You should repeat the application. The more you put on the soft wood, the harder it will get after it dries.
Although, you should try and get it as dry as possible, you can still use the Petrifier. It will take longer to harden, and by putting a fan near by to blow onto the repaired area, you can assist the drying process. Or you can just blow on it, but it is time consuming and tiring
Absolutely. I recommend an oil base primer and then paint. Stain will not work unless it is a solid pigment stain.
Party time!. Once it is hardened, you can use our product, PC-Woody, to rebuild the missing pieces of wood. Then paint and enjoy what you have done.
PC-Woody when mixed is a tan color resembling that of natural Pine.
You can stain PC-Woody after it has cured (24 hours). Sand it first with medium grit sandpaper, then apply the stain. Best results come from using a heavy pigmented stain or gel stain. You can also cheat. Using dry powder earth tone pigments, you can add to the epoxy while mixing it. This is the fastest and best way to tint it to match surrounding wood.
Start with the name. PC-Woody is an epoxy. This epoxy is made from real wood. PC-Woody will not shrink, crumble, sag or drip and once cured, you can drill into it, sand it, machine it and virtually treat it like real wood. Epoxy is a permanent repair rather than a quick fix like wood fillers. Why do you think they call them fillers? They fill. PC-Woody forms a tenacious bond to wood.
No. PC-Woody will not shrink and has a thick peanut butter consistency that allows you to do large jobs in one stage or step.
The longer, the better. Usually after 12 hours, PC-Woody is hard enough to be sanded. Test prior to hitting it with a belt sander.
Personally, I like to use a paint brush and paint. Sand the cured product, prime it and paint it like real wood.
Absolutely. PC-Woody will take expansion and contraction and unlike real wood, it will never rot.
PC-Woody was developed as a result of our think tank and with alien intervention (reverse engineering). Our R&D department saw a need for a permanent repair for large jobs on wood and the rest is Woody History.
A question our sales team loves to hear. They assure me that PC-Woody is available in a variety of sizes including 1 gallon and even 10 gallon sizes. See the website for more information. Both Grainger.com and Home Depot.com sites have large sizes available. Your local Hardware store can also help you order larger sizes.
Maybe. Did you mix it thoroughly until it became a consistent color? Did you get it in just about equal 1:1 parts of hardener and resin? If you can answer yes to both of these questions, it may simply be a matter of cooler temperatures or higher humidity. Give it some more time or speed it up by applying artificial heat such as a heat lamp if below 70°F.
Blasphemy! Polyesters like this do indeed have a horrible odor, and if too much of the hardening cream is added, they are unpredictable in their working time. They also shrink. Woody is a 100% solids epoxy without any solvents. PC-Woody allows about 45 minutes working time, so even a large job can be done easily. Would you repair your fiberglass car panel with wood? I think not. Then why put fiberglass into a wood repair? PC-Woody is designed for repairs to wood. Polyester resin fillers are designed for car body repairs.
You can stain PC-Woody after it has cured (24 hours). Sand it first with medium grit sandpaper, then apply the stain. Best results come from using a heavy pigmented stain or gel stain. You can also cheat. Using dry powder earth tone pigments, you can add to the epoxy while mixing it. This is the fastest and surest way to tint it to match surrounding wood.
Sometimes, the product gets "hot Spots" when not thoroughly mixed. If you can remove it, you should. The product needs to be mixed until a uniform color with no streaks.
Yes, once the Rot Terminator has fully cured and is dry to the touch, PC-Woody can be applied in order to fill and rebuild.
The key to staining the Woody is to sand it first. You may have to use several applications on the area in order to bring it to an acceptable color. A good solid pigment stain is the best. Solid stains work well, and darker colors are easier to match. If you are going with a lighter stain, it is best to use powder pigments and mix them while mixing the epoxy. This will give the best results for a good match of color.
Although latex will adhere to the product, oil based paints and primers work best. They form a better bond to the epoxy. Sand the area and use a stain blocking primer first.
Keep the puppy on a leash for at least 12 hours or until the repaired area is hardened.
Woody was formulated for just this type of permanent application and will expand and contract with the wood it is bonded to. In 2008 "This Old House Magazine" wrote an article on just this situation and they determined that polyesters and fillers will not perform well with weather conditions. They recommend not using polyesters for this type of repair.
We drew names from a hat. We related the word Woody to the old wood side paneled surfing cars. What do you think it means?
This depends on the amount of rot and how porous the wood is. It is impossible to determine exactly how deep the product will penetrate and thus require additional product to be applied. You do not want to take any shortcuts, especially on structural applications.
Absolutely, and excellent choice. Harden the wood, rebuild any missing pieces with PC-Woody epoxy, paint or stain and you are good to go.
No, just what is flaky. PC-Rot Terminator is a true epoxy system that will consolidate the rotted wood fibers.
Did you ever see Jurassic Park, where the mosquito was trapped in the Amber? This is what will happen to any poor, unsuspecting termite that would still be in the wood when treated. It will not stop those who escape, however, to end their feast on your wood. I suggest treating the area first with PC-Wood Guardian. This will kill those pests, and then treat the area with the Rot Terminator.
Yes, but why would you do that? If you have severe rot, which is what this product is designed for, you will have areas that will need to be rebuilt. Use PC-Woody and rebuild the area and then finish with primer and a paint. Don't go to all of the trouble to just put a band aid on it. Finish the project.
Get a ladder? You can apply by brushing the product onto the rotted area. Wear old clothing, because the Rot Terminator will harden into fabric. If a finished floor, cover it up first. You can also get creative with this. A turkey baster works well to control the amount of product you are applying. Move the product around with a brush.
Nope. It will clog the nozzle of the sprayer.
Yes, it will soak into the wood. The trick is getting it there in the first place. After you have mixed the product, transfer to a container and use a brush to apply it.
Full Question: I have used and loved your products -- every flavor!! -- for years so
I naturally chose these for my latest project -- repairing some
damaged wood on the exterior of a home. I am going to use rot
terminator followed by woody, then prime & paint, but I do have
questions before I begin. We are in a rainy pattern right now --
although the wood is generally not getting wet there is a high
humidity level -- is this a problem? Also, I plan to drill into the
soft and rotted areas about 3/16 diameter -- but I am unclear on how
far apart I need to drill, and how deep. The package is very unclear
on this and the website is not much clearer. I know it can be very
situation-specific but maybe some helpful hints so I can at least go
in the right direction -- I am kind of flying blind on this
application. I need it to be perfect because I brag about your
products to everyone!!
Thank you for the support and kind words. I will address in the order you asked the questions. High humidity will not affect the cured product, but may slow down the actual curing process. When drilling the holes, you need to space them about 1-2 inches apart and only drill until you hit solid wood. Yes, every situation can be different and unique. If we tried to address everything, we would need a package the size of a house.
Full Question: I need to repair some rotted door jambs. The wood is pine and the rot
is at the bottom where it touches the aluminum sill. The first 3/4" is
really soft with some wood missing and then maybe the next inch is a little soft.
This is a vertical surface and I am wondering what is the best approach.
Should I drill some holes and apply PC Rot Terminator to consolidate
and then when it cures rebuild the shape with PC Woody or can you
suggest what approach and products to use?
You did not need us. You have a good grasp on the situation. Drill the holes on an angle about 1-2 inches apart and apply the mixed Rot Terminator into them. This will allow access for the hardener into the rotted fibers. Use a brush to spread the product over the wood, and collect any overflow. Once cured, you can follow up with the PC-Woody and rebuild areas and plug the application holes you drilled.
Yes, PC-Fahrenheit will hold up to temperatures as high as 500°F.
No it is not conductive. The amount of steel fillers is not enough to create conductivity.
I am appalled! No, they are all different and unique formulas for different types of repairs and situations.
Before applying the mixed putty to a leak, the pipe needs to be sanded to a shiny surface, cleaned to remove dirt and rust or corrosion, and most importantly, the water pressure needs to be stopped. If there is pressure, the epoxy is pushed away by the pressure and can not bond to the surface. Turn the water off, clean and prep the surface and let the repair cure for at least 1 hour before turning the water back on.
PC-Lumber will accept some stain, but don't expect it to soak in deeply like it will on wood. The cured epoxy must be sanded and then stained with a heavy pigmented or gel stain.
Warm the product before mixing it. The warmer it is, the easier it is to mix. If the birds keep breaking their bath, remove it.
PC Plumbing can be applied to wet surfaces. Ideally, the water pressure should be off and the surface should be dry to obtain optimum results, but it does indeed adhere to wet or damp surfaces.
PC Marine does not adhere to polyethylene or polypropylene. If you buy an aluminum canoe and break it, we can help you.
Your seal should last a very long time and the putty does not break down or deteriorate. In some applications, however, other epoxy products may perform better than epoxy putty. We have found that our paste epoxies (PC-7, PC-11 and PC SuperEpoxy) have greater adhesion test results than the putties. Epoxy putties are extremely useful because of their ease of use and rapid cure times. This makes them indispensable for urgently needed or emergency repairs and in no way does this imply that they are temporary. If you need a quick repair, it is an emergency, I suppose.
PC Metal can be drilled and tapped. Aluminum threads are stronger than epoxy threads. It may get you by, but I would probably replace the threads using a metal insert.
PC Plumbing can be pried off using a pliers or screwdriver. Paint stripper or paint remover will remove the remainder in layers.
No, PC Fahrenheit is capable of withstanding up to 500 °F but a gas burner is much hotter than that. What are we cooking?
PC Plumbing has been used successfully to repair leaks in copper pipes. Now, water your plants!
PC Lumber is a hand knead able epoxy putty and PC Woody is an epoxy paste resembling peanut butter. PC Lumber cures harder and faster than PC Woody. It is very convenient and is used usually for smaller applications. The name is also different.
Plastics vary and I don't know what your reservoir is made of. Epoxies such as PC Fahrenheit stick to PVC and ABS fairly well but don't stick well to Polypropylene. Send photo's.
PC Plumbing has been determined safe by NSF for contact with potable water as a repair product in typical plumbing applications. I don't know if this would be considered typical. I'll be right over. I love fresh coffee.
PC Plumbing sticks fairly well to PVC and ABS but not to other hard plastics like Nylon, Acrylic, Polystyrene and Polycarbonate. This is a new car. How did he break the antenna already?
PC Marine is waterproof and should form a permanent seal. What is a niche?
Possibly, it may require using a Dremel tool and grinding a groove to provide greater surface area. Were you running the car without oil in it?
No, PC Plumbing is not conductive. All of our products are considered electrical insulators.
PC Fahrenheit is capable of withstanding up to 500 °F. Higher temperatures will cause the epoxy to produce an odor. This will eventually dissipate. Roll down the windows.
IT IS NOT OUR PRODUCT! Please, please, please do not attempt to do what you perceive to be seeing done by this product in real life. It will not work. It is a marketing game, and should actually, in my opinion, have many disclaimers in the commercial. Putty epoxies are not intended to make chain links and tow trucks and you can't put shelves on the wall and put 300lbs. on them in an instant. Believe nothing that you hear, and half of what you see. Also, why would you need 6 sticks of product? We offer one reliable stick of epoxy putty.