PC-Woody® is a two part epoxy paste formulated for wood repairs. It is excellent for filling cavities in wood. As a filler it is capable of withstanding changing environmental conditions without cracking or popping out. Structurally, it bonds permanently to the wood. PC-Woody’s composition includes real wood giving it many of the characteristics of wood. It is mixed using a convenient 1:1 ratio by volume and its consistency is much like peanut butter. The working time is approximately 30 minutes, giving ample time to apply and smooth or shape the repair. It can be applied in any thickness but it can also be applied onto cured PC-Woody. Vertical applications are possible due to the thixotropic nature of the mixture. It can be sanded and shaped, hammered, drilled and screwed. PC-Woody is excellent for replacing wood damaged by rot, knots, checking, nail or screw holes, termites, carpenter ants and bees, squirrels and woodpeckers.
PC- Woody® is a permanent wood repair for interior and exterior applications. PC-Woody® formulation provides extended working time, for large and critical jobs, which allows the user time to reposition work or to shape and make changes. High “wet grab” or tack of PC-Woody® makes overhead and sidewall work easy without drip or sag. PC- Woody® demonstrates excellent resistance to all weather elements, mildew, dry rot, UV light, fresh and salt water, and also chemicals present in pressure-treated wood.
***Note: PC-Woody® will not bond to wax paper, Teflon®, Polyethylene, and most plastics.
Using separate knives to remove amount needed, mix equal parts A (off white) and B (light brown) on a flat clean surface until a uniform color is achieved. Surfaces to be filled should be free of loose fibers, dirt and dust. Apply a wood hardener such as PC-Petrifier or PC-Rot Terminator before applying PC-Woody to wood that has been damaged by decay or insects. Suitable solvents include: denatured alcohol, acetone, rubbing alcohol and lacquer thinner. Use solvent for cleanup. Also use solvent to help smooth, feather and shape the applied PC-Woody. This will help to reduce the amount of sanding required when cured. PC-Woody is normally ready to be sanded within 24 hours but additional time may be required when using mechanical sanders. Wear recommended personal protective equipment when working with chemicals or sanding. Use a high quality stain sealing primer (such as Zinseer Bullseye 1-2-3® or Kilz® Premium water base) before painting. Although PC-Woody accepts stain it will not develop the same colors and grain as the surrounding wood. Natural looking results require an artistic touch using various colored marking pens or non-transparent stains that are like paints. Pigment powders and universal tinting pastes (the kind used for tinting in the paint department) work well for matching colors. Apply PC-Woody to both surfaces when using PC-Woody to bond replacement wood into cavities, then squeeze into position. Voids that are exposed by sanding can be filled with a second thin application.
Apply PC-Woody® in any thickness to both sides of surface and bring together firmly. Be careful to insure that ample amount of PC-Woody® remains between the contact surfaces. Use screen wire or fiberglass cloth to reinforce large voids and gaps. Use a wood hardener such as PC-Petrifier (windows, siding and decorative wood) or PC-Rot Terminator (decking, posts, piles and joists) before filling with PC-Woody. Consult an engineer for critical structural situations.
After cure: Paint, Stain, Drill, Machine, Sand, File, Tap, or Saw.
In cold or cool temperatures, place PC-Woody® containers near heat prior to using. PC-Woody® mixes and spreads easier at 80°F than at 40°F. Any clean smooth flat surface is an excellent surface for mixing and working. A small putty knife or flexible artist spatula are great tools for mixing and applying PC-Woody®. Note: It is more difficult to accurately measure smaller equal volumes of A and B than larger. Adding additional B (hardener) does not speed the cure but too much part B will cause the cured epoxy to remain tacky or very soft. Some paints and varnishes do not dry or cure properly when applied directly to a cured epoxy surface. Use a premium stain sealing primer or test the paint or varnish separately. Polyester gel coats and epoxy paints do not cure well in direct contact with cured epoxy.
Denatured alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner and rubbing alcohol are excellent solvents for smoothing applied PC-Woody®. Also use solvent to clean surfaces before applying and mixing surface and tools when complete. Do not use paint thinner, mineral spirits or kerosene. Cured PC-Woody can be removed with paint remover or paint stripper.
***Note: Most epoxies are temperature sensitive and will cure faster at higher temperatures and slower at cooler temperatures. Speed cure with artificial heat. PC-Woody does not cure as rapidly as polyester fillers such as Bondo® and Minwax® but is less likely to develop cracking and pop out because of its flexibility.
The shelf-life of PC-Woody is two years. With time PC-Woody part B may develop a darker color and separate and part A may develop crystals that are not permanent but can be dispersed with warmth (120F).
Critical Applications, TEST FIRST!
Click for printable version of tinting/staining info.
Pigments come in three forms: powder, paste, and liquid.
PC-Woody® can be stained, but the type of stain will affect the color of the PC-Woody®. The best stains contain pigments. The stain contains pigments if the can has sediment at the bottom of the can. This sediment must be stirred before using the stain. Pigmented stains have more hiding power than other stains. Other stains sometimes contain only dyes. Advice: PC-Woody® cures to a light tan color. It does not have the various shading found in real wood. PC-Woody® is capable of absorbing some stain but it is not as porous as real wood. By staining PC-Woody®, the result is usually a light shade of the stain used.
Before using PC Woody®, it is very important to test the final color against the item you're repairing by preparing a small sample and letting it cure. Then, stain the sample. If the stained PC Woody® does not produce the desired result, consider pre-tinting the PC Woody with pigment tinting pastes or raw pigment powders.
Try some of these steps / hints:
The microscopic organisms that discolor and decay wood belong to a group of primitive plants known as fungi. Unable to produce their own food, fungi feed instead on natural substances (symbiosis) that make up organic materials like leather, cloth, paper, and of course wood.
These organisms release millions of dust-size spores that are distributed by air movement. These spores germinate, producing thread-like filaments called hyphae. The enzymes secreted by hyphae break down organic matter so fungi can feed on it.
Before this fungi can attack wood, certain requirements must be met: oxygen must be present, temperatures must be in the 40 to 100 degree Fahrenheit range, there must be a supply of sufficient moisture, and there has to be a food source. Infection can be prevented by eliminating any one of these requirements.
The element boron has proven deadly to decay fungi and is an effective preventative treatment for deterring termites, carpenter ants and wood boring larvae. Boron is most effective when applied as a water soluble salt called D.O.T. (Disodium octaborate tetrahydrate). In this form it is considered low toxicity to humans and pets.
Of course, the most effective "method" of preventing fungal deterioration of wood is to keep it dry. The decay of the wood is caused by the chemicals dissolving nutrients in the wood, the nutrients are then absorbed by the fungal hyphae, enabling the growth to take place. If the moisture content is high enough the growth extends through the wood via a network of fine threads called mycelium. As with any fungus, the spores are ever present in the dormant stage, awaiting proper conditions to grow. At this time, some of the filaments penetrate below the surface, first softening and then destroying the wood.
Decay fungi fall into three major groups: brown rots, white rots, and soft rots.
Brown rots are so-named because infected wood turns dark brown. When dried, wood previously infested will turn to powder when crushed. Many times, old infestations of brown rot which have dried out are labeled as "dry rot." This is really a deceiving term since wood will not decay when dry.
White rots show a white, gray-white, yellow-white, or bleached appearance to wood. Most often infecting hardwoods. In advanced stages of decay, white-rotted wood is spongy, has a stringy texture, and lacks the checking of brown-rotted wood. A thin black line often marks the advancing edge of white rot in hardwoods.
Soft Rots: Most decay fungi are unable to conduct water very far and can only attack moist wood. However, Poria incrassata, called dry rot or the water-conducting fungus, will decay wood which would not be attacked by typical decay fungi. Poria infested wood is often mistakenly identified as subterranean termite damage. This type of fungus can transport water for several feet through large root-like structures called rhizomorphs. Once established, it can quickly spread.
Subterranean termites are the most destructive insect pests of wood in the United States. They cause more than $2 billion in damage each year: more property damage than is caused by fire and windstorm combined. Several species of subterranean termites are found in the United States; they live in every state except Alaska.
Carpenter ants damaged wood by hollowing it out for nesting. Their excavated galleries in the wood have a smooth, sandpapered appearance. Wood which has been damaged by carpenter ants contains no mud-like material, as is the case with termites. Shredded fragments of wood, similar in appearance to coarse sawdust, are ejected from the galleries through preexisting cracks or slits made by the ants.
Powderpost beetles are so called because in high numbers they are able to turn the inside of a piece of wood into nothing more than a mass of fine powder. These wood destroying beetles can do significant damage to log homes, furniture, wood floors and structural timbers in your home. Powderpost beetles are small (1/8 inches) and the adult beetles are seldom seen. Most of the life cycle is spent in the grub or larvae stage eating wood. Damage is done by the larvae as they create narrow, meandering tunnels in wood as they feed.